Start by cutting off the old spindle. Then, grind the surface of the spindle bracket smooth.
With a 1 1/4-inch bi-metal hole saw, cut a hole to accept the new stub axle shoulder. Remember to put a large chamfer on the outside of the spindle bracket for welding. Weld the inside and the outside.
Box in the spindle bracket with 1/4-inch plate steel, and weld the inside and the outside.
Make sure your outer weld is contained within the chamfer because you only have 1/8 of an inch between the spindle bracket and the new hub assembly.
Install the hub, pack it with grease and check the clearances.
Install your tires on the new rims. Then, you’re all set.
The Cub Cadet with newly upgraded 1000-pound front axles ... Now you won’t have to wonder if the front end can take it.
Doug kept his existing 3/4-inch L-shaped spindles and bored out the new spindles.
A bored out spindle slips over one of his existing spindles and is held in place by cotter pin at the end, that runs through both spindles.
Using a cotter pin allowed him to upgrade to the tapered roller bearings and a 4-bolt hub without changing his current L-shaped spindle configuration.
And, if for some reason he wanted to go back to his original setup, he could just pull the cotter pins and switch back to his original wheels and hubs.
Stan C. in Medford, Oregon, used another technique to upgrade the L-shaped spindles on his 1968 12-HP Gilson.
He reused the stock steering arms and incorporated them into a completely new C-shaped spindle carrier.
Then, he used 1-inch spindles and other recommended parts from Northern Equipment to finish his upgrade. This is the finished product, complete with 4-bolt hubs and tapered roller bearings. You can’t get much stronger than this. Thank you Stan C.
Jon bored the new spindle through at a 12-degree angle to keep the alignment straight with the axle. Then, he welded in a new pivot pin.
This is the finished product, using the original steering arms on the linkage.