The 1000 lb. front spindle upgrade

Norman explains how to upgrade the spindle on his Cub Cadet 149.

How to do it:

Step 1

Start by cutting off the old spindle then grind the surface of the spindle bracket smooth.

Step 2

With a 1-1/4" bi-metal hole saw, provide a hole to accept the new stub axle shoulder. remember to put a large chamfer on the outside of the spindle bracket for welding. weld inside and out.

Step 3

Box in the spindle bracket with 1/4" plate steel and weld inside and out.

Step 4

Make sure your outer weld is contained within the chamfer because you only have 1/8" between the spindle bracket and the new hub assembly.

Step 5

Install the hub, pack with grease and check clearances.

Step 6

Install your tires on the new rims and you're all set.

The Cub 1000 lb. front axle ... now you won’t have to wonder if the front end can take it.

What if you should have the “L-shaped” spindles?

Here is an idea from Doug H.

He kept his existing 3/4" “L-shaped” spindles on the tractor and just bored out the Northern Tool spindle to fit over it.

The bored out spindle slips over your existing spindle and is held in place by the cotter pin at the end running through both spindles.

Using the cotter pin allows you to upgrade to the tapered roller bearings and a 4 bolt hub without changing your current “L-shaped” spindle configuration

And, if for some reason you want to go back to your original setup, just pull the cotter pin at the end of the spindle and slide on your original wheels and hubs

Another method from Stan C.

Stan C, in Medford, OR., used another technique to upgrade the “L-shaped” spindles on his 1968 Gilson 12 HP.

He reused the stock steering arms and incorporated them into a completely new "C" shaped spindle carrier.

Then, he used the 1" spindles, etc., from Northern Equipment. This is the finished product complete with 4 bolt hubs and tapered roller bearings, you can't get much stronger than this. Thank you Stan C.

Jon’s solution

Jon bored the new spindle through at a 12 degree angle to keep the alignment straight with the axle, then welded in a new pivot pin.

This is the finished product using the original steering arms on the linkage.

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